- View a giant stuffed grizzly at Smithers Airport
- traditional Native American spear fishermen watch the rapids at Mauricetown
- Immerse yourself in the Native American culture of the Northwest Pacific at the 'Ksan Historical Village
- Lonely drive on the Cassiar Highway towards the Yukon and Alaska
- Detour to the outpost of civilization in Steward / Hyder
- Breathtaking campsite above the massive Salmon Glacier
I start the day with a positive surprise: It's just drizzling. I still have breakfast in the car, briefly use the Internet and start. On the advice of the Scarecrow farmer, I pay a visit to the huge stuffed grizzley at Smithers Airport. Truly an impressive creature and many times larger than the average grizzly I've met so far. The monster specimen is said to have weighed 460 kilograms when it had to be shot in 2001. The giant bear was able to avoid all trapping operations for a full 3 years, as it had killed cows on various occasions in the region. When he was caught in the trap, he bit the loop, tore himself free and lunged at the officers, who took him down in self-defense a few meters in front of them.
The next town, Mauricetown, is best known for the canyon and rapids. Here the Indians have been fishing salmon from the waters with hoes for generations. It's raining cats and dogs again and I'm happy about my cowboy hat. The men have caught some considerable specimens, but most of the salmon are not expected for the next few weeks. I visited this place with my parents as a toddler on our trip to Canada in 1993.
In Hazelton I visit the remarkable 'Ksan Historical Village. A recreated village of the Gitxsan Indians with carved and painted totems and some houses. Unfortunately, it is still pouring out of buckets, which does not exactly extend the stay in the open air. I make a detour to the neighboring village of Kispiox, where there are some more totems in a rather modest condition.
Soon afterwards I reach the crossing point Kitwanga. From here it's now on the Cassiar Highway 37 to the lonely north of BC and on to the Yukon Territory. Watson Lake is 750 km from the nearest noteworthy location. In between there are only 2-3 Indian settlements and supply stations. After a thunderstorm, the clouds slowly disappear, and even a little blue appears. So it's a lot more fun, especially when you see a black bear crossing the street. The roadside is lined with a veritable sea of flowers and behind it are lonely streams, swamps and forests. After Meziadin Lake I turn onto the strait to Steward. This outpost of civilization, together with its American neighbor Hyder, forms the border between Canada and Alaska. The drive through the coastal mountains is an absolute highlight. The road leads along the wild Bear River and on both sides of the road high, still snow-covered mountain peaks can be seen. In between there are always majestic glaciers. The Bear Glacier in particular is an imposing appearance and a worthwhile photo subject. We continue towards the fjord.
After a visit to the local Visitors Center, I immediately crossed the unmanned US border and arrived in Hyder. The place is famous for its fishing grizzlies. Unfortunately, it is still a bit early for that, at least no one can be seen from the elevated viewing platform. But that is not the only attraction of the small town. The unpaved Salmon Glacier Road leads another 40 kilometers into the hinterland, back over to Canada and up to the even more powerful Salmon Glacier. Probably the mightiest glacier I've seen so far. The view from the street down to this sea of ice is incredibly fascinating. On the advice of the farmer from the previous evening, there is said to be a campground up here that hardly anyone knows. And in fact, you are allowed to spend the night at Glacier View Point. Of course, I will not miss this opportunity with the magnificent view. When the food is prepared, thick fog comes in followed by drizzle and I flee into the car.
